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Simply Chic Buffalo Plaid Fingerless Gloves

Love plaid?

Then you’ll love my Simply Chic Buffalo Plaid pattern collection, including my newest addition – plaid fingerless gloves!

simply chic buffalo plaid fingerless gloves

Ah… winter… the snow, the twinkling lights, the holidays… I love it all all!

But you know one of the things I love the most?

Winter fashion!

And my favorite part of winter fashion is plaid. 😃

Yep, plaid is rad!

Honestly winter should be called plaid season, don’t you think? 😉

Now, if you’re not familiar with the crochet plaid stitch, don’t worry.

It’s really not difficult at all.

In fact, it only requires one basic stitch, the double crochet.

The only thing that is intimidating is that you need to coordinate three different colors at once.

This can be a little challenging, but with some practice I know you’ll catch on just fine!

One thing that helps, if you are not used to working with multiple yarns at once is a crochet tote organizer.

I own this one and use it all the time!

This awesome bag has separate compartments for each skein of yarn. The top zips down to protect the yarn, but there is a little hole for the thread to move through as you crochet.

It’s such a HUGE help!

You can purchase this nifty little helper via my Amazon affiliate link HERE.

Now, if you have never done the plaid stitch before be sure to check out this video tutorial:  How to Work the Plaid Stitch before attempting this pattern.

Then just give it a little time, practice, and patience and you’ll easily catch on!


Looking for lots of crafty inspiration, tips, tutorials, and a great crochet community? Join my Facebook group!


You’ll never regret learning this fun and classy stitch.

In fact, you may find yourself knee deep in a ton of paid crochet projects after you do!

That’s exactly how my Simply Chic Buffalo Plaid collection came to be.

After my first plaid project I went on to make two others and I have even more in the works!

Check out the other two patterns in the Simply Chic Buffalo Plaid collection by clicking on the photos below. 😃



Crochet Plaid Ear Warmer Pattern by https://itchinforsomestitchin.com

Check Out These Other Patterns I LOVE!

1. Winter Wonderland Triangle Shawl /  2. Simply Classic Cable Head Warmer / 3. Alpine Ridges Comfort Scarf



How to Crochet Plaid Fingerless Gloves


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Summary:

This Simply Chic Buffalo Plaid Fingerless Gloves are both warm and stylish.  Designed with the eye-catching plaid stitch, you are sure to turn heads in this beautiful winter accessory!  Use colors and/or embellish with buttons of your choice to create a fabulous pair of gloves that’s as unique as you!

Difficulty level:  Level 3-4 / Intermediate – Advanced

Finished Dimensions:

*All dimensions provided are approximate.   Dimensions are based on yarn standards for crochet provided by The Craft Yarn Council

Small/child (ages 2 – 6 yrs) :  6-inch circumference or 3-inch wide, 5.5 inches tall (long)

Large child/woman’s medium (ages 6-8 thru adult):  6.5 – 7.5 inches circumference or 3.5 – 4 inches wide, 7 inches tall (long)

Large (women – men adult sizes): 8 – 9.5 inches circumference or 4 – 4.5 inches wide, 7 inches tall (long)

Gauge:   15 stitches and 6 rows = 4-inches in plaid stitch

Materials:

  • 3 colors of medium 4 worsted weight yarn – one light (A), one medium (B), & one dark (C) – 3 skeins total.

NOTE:   The medium color of yarn (B) should be a blending of the dark & light colors.  This color will be used in every row of the project and will require about double the amount of yarn as the light (A) and dark (C) shades.


~In this pattern I used medium 4 worsted weight 100% acrylic yarn: Red Heart with Love in Holly Berry (A/light), Red Heart Super Saver in Claret (B/medium), and Red Heart Super Saver in black (C/dark).  1 skein is 7 oz / 198g / 364 yd / 333m yards.

~ Total yardage: 100 yd / 365.76m to a max of 1092yd / 999m

Yarn Substitutions – Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek and  Yarn Bee I Love This Yarn.    

  • Crochet Hook sizes I / 9 – 5.5mm and G/4.00mm
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • Scissors

(Click HERE to find my favorite crochet tools & resources)

Abbreviations:

Pattern is written in US terms.    *Click on abbreviation names for tutorials

Chain stitch (ch/chs)

Slip-stitch (slp-st)

Single crochet (sc)

Double crochet (dc)

Sc2tog

Stitch/es (st/sts)

Additional Notes:

Read all pattern notes, instructions, and other provided details carefully before starting the project to make sure you understand everything.  It could save you hours & a lot of headaches!

  • Make a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch provided under the Gauge Section. If your swatch matches the gauge, then you are all set to start the project. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your crochet hook – increase your hook size if your stitches are smaller & decrease your hook size if your stitches are larger.
  • All measurements given are unblocked.
  • Provided measurements are as exact as possible, but are given as approximates. This is because yarn variances, crochet tension, & individual  technique might give variations in the result, which changes from person to person.
  • For Large child/women’s medium and Large sizes, If the area around the fingers seems too tight, please see the “Adjustments” section.  Please read this section BEFORE starting the pattern.
  • Pattern starts at the wrist and works towards the fingers and thumb.
  • All images are of the Large size.
  • At the end of each row when the pattern states “turn work, ch 3, dc in the first st” – in this case the ch 3 does not count as a stitch.  You can alternatively use the chainless standing dc here, but in this case it will count as your first dc. 

Resources

Chainless Standing Double Crochet

Starting and Standing Stitches (scroll to the section on standing stitches)

  • To significantly reduce the number of ends to weave in, carry your yarn horizontally through your work – crocheting over it as you go – and/or vertically up the sides of your work.

Resources

Carry the yarn horizontally through project

Carry the yarn vertically up the sides of the projec

**This is the technique I used when designing this pattern.

Instructions:

This pattern uses the plaid stitch.   

The Plaid Stitch Diagram by www.itchinforsomestitchin.com

Small/child size

With color C (DARK shade) using 5.5mm hook,  Ch 17

Row 1:  Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (15) sts.

Row 2 (PLAID row 1):  Turn work, ch 3 (DOES NOT count as a dc), dc in the first stitch (or a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) -Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color C (DARK shade) -Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end.  (15) sts.

~ Should end on color C  (DARK shade).

NOTE:  You should be alternating color C (DARK shade) and color B (MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.  

Row 3 (PLAID row 2):  Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – turn work, ch3, dc in the first stitch (or a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color A (LIGHT shade) – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – Dc in the next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color A (LIGHT shade)- Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end. (15) sts.

~ Should end on color B (MEDIUM shade).

NOTE:  You should be alternating color A  (LIGHT shade) and color B (MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.

NOTE:  The color B (MEDIUM shade) should be above the color C (DARK shade) stitches from the previous row and the color A (LIGHT shade) stitches should be above the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches from the previous row.

Row 4 (PLAID row 3) :  Change to color C (DARK shade)- turn work, ch3, dc in the first stitch (or work a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color C (DARK shade)- Dc in the next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade)- Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end. (15) sts.

~ Should end on color C (DARK shade).

NOTE:  

  • You should be alternating color C (DARK  shade) and color B (MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.
  • The color C (DARK shade) stitches should be on top of the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches from the previous row and the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches should be on top of the color A (LIGHT shade) stitches from the previous row.

Rows 5 – 6:   Repeat rows 3-4 (plaid rows 2-3) one more time.

NOTE:  Will have completed 6 total rows, 5 of which are plaid rows. (15) sts.

Row 7:  Change to color B (MEDIUM shade), Ch 3, turn work, Dc in the next 3 sts, change to color A (LIGHT shade), dc in the next 3 sts, change to color B (MEDIUM shade), dc in the next 3 sts, change to color A (LIGHT shade), dc in the next 3 sts, leave the last 3 sts unworked. 12 sts.

Row 8:  Change to color B (MEDIUM shade), Ch 3, turn work, Dc in the next 3 sts, *change to color C (DARK shade), dc in the next 3 sts, change to color B (MEDIUM shade), dc in the next 3 sts *,  Repeat from * to * to end. (12) sts.

Bind Off & Weave in ends. See Finishing.

Large child/women’s medium

With color C (DARK shade), using 5.5mm hook,  Ch  20

Row 1:  Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (18) sts.

Row 2 (PLAID row 1):  Turn work, ch 3 (DOES NOT count as a dc), dc in the first stitch (or a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) -Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color C (DARK shade) -Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end.  (18) sts.

~ Should end on color B (MEDIUM shade).

NOTE:  You should be alternating color C (DARK shade) and color B (MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.

Row 3 (PLAID row 2):  Change to color A (LIGHT shade) – turn work, ch3, dc in the first stitch (or work a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color A (LIGHT shade) – Dc in the next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end. (18) sts.

~ Should end on color B (MEDIUM shade).

NOTE:  You should be alternating color A (LIGHT shade) and color B (MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.

NOTE:  The color B (MEDIUM shade) should be above the color C (DARK shade) stitches from the previous row and the color A (LIGHT shade) stitches should be above the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches from the previous row.

Row 4 (PLAID row 3) :  Change to color C (DARK shade)- turn work, ch3, dc in the first stitch (or work a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM  shade)  – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color C (DARK shade)- Dc in the next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM  shade)- Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end. (18) sts

 ~ Should end on color B (MEDIUM  shade).

NOTE:  

  • You should be alternating color C (DARK  shade) and color B(MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.
  • The color C (DARK shade) stitches should be on top of the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches from the previous row and the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches should be on top of the color A (LIGHT shade) stitches from the previous row.

Rows 5 – 6:   Repeat rows 3-4 (plaid rows 2-3) one more time.

NOTE:  Will have completed 6 total rows, 5 of which are plaid rows. (18) sts

Row 7:  Change to color A (LIGHTshade), Ch 3, turn work, Dc in the next 3 sts, change to color B (MEDIUM shade), dc in the next 3 sts*  Repeat from * to * to the last 6 sts – leave last 6 sts unworked.  (12) sts.

Row 8:  Change to color C (DARK shade), Ch 3, turn work, Dc in the next 3 sts, change to color B (MEDIUM shade), dc in the next 3 sts*  Repeat from * to * to the end.  (12) sts.

Bind Off & Weave in ends.  See Finishing.

Large size

With color C (DARK shade), using 5.5mm hook,  Ch 26

Row 1:  Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (24) sts.

Row 2 (PLAID row 1):  Turn work, ch 3 (DOES NOT count as a dc), dc in the first stitch (or a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) -Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color C (DARK shade) -Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end.   (24) sts.

~ Should end on color B (MEDIUM shade).

NOTE:  You should be alternating color C (DARK shade) and color B (MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.

Row 3 (PLAID row 2):  Change to color A (LIGHT shade) – turn work, ch3, dc in the first stitch (or work a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade)- Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color A (LIGHT shade) – Dc in the next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade)- Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end. (24) sts.

~ Should end on color B (MEDIUM shade).

NOTE:  You should be alternating color A (LIGHT shade) and color B (MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.

NOTE:  The color B (MEDIUM shade) should be above the color C (DARK shade) stitches from the previous row and the color A (LIGHT shade) stitches should be above the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches from the previous row.

Row 4 (PLAID row 3) :  Change to color C (DARK shade)- turn work, ch3, dc in the first stitch (or work a standing DC) and in the next 2 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade) – Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)

*Change to color C (DARK shade)- Dc in the next 3 stitches. (3dc)

Change to color B (MEDIUM shade)- Dc in the  next 3 stitches. (3dc)*

Repeat from * to * to end. (24) sts.

~ Should end on color B (MEDIUM shade).

NOTE:  

  • You should be alternating color C (DARK  shade) and color B (MEDIUM shade) every 3 double crochet stitches.
  • The color C (DARK shade) stitches should be on top of the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches from the previous row and the color B (MEDIUM shade) stitches should be on top of the color A (LIGHT shade) stitches from the previous row.

Rows 5 – 6:   Repeat rows 3-4 (plaid rows 2-3) one more time.

NOTE:  Will have completed 6 total rows, 5 of which are plaid rows.  (24) sts.

Row 7:  Change to color A (LIGHT shade), Ch 3, turn work, Dc in the next 3 sts, change to color B (MEDIUM shade), dc in the next 3 sts*  Repeat from * to * to the last 6 sts – leave last 6 sts unworked.  (18) sts.

Row 8:  Change to color C (DARK shade), Ch 3, turn work, Dc in the next 3 sts, change to color B (MEDIUM shade), dc in the next 3 sts*  Repeat from * to * to the end.  (18) sts.

Bind Off & Weave in ends.  See Finishing.

Finishing:

Form the gloves

NOTE:  For Large child/women’s medium and Large sizes, If the area around the fingers seems too tight, please see the “Adjustment” section below BEFORE finishing.

NOTE: For seaming, you can use any coordinating color of yarn and your preferred seaming technique.

  • For the LEFT glove, lay the crochet piece as shown in the photo below with the wrong side down.
  • Fold & seam the glove as shown below.  Right side should be on the inside.
  • For the RIGHT glove, lay the crochet piece as shown in the photo below with the wrong side down.
  • Fold & seam the glove as shown in the image below.  Right side should be on the inside.

For BOTH gloves, (keep them inside out) bring the two top corners of the glove together and seam along one entire plaid stitch or simply along a length that will properly fit the thumb for which you are crocheting the gloves.  Be sure to leave a hole of appropriate thumb size.

Bind Off & Weave in ends.

  • Keeping the glove inside out, switch to the 4.00mm hook, attach black yarn to any stitch around the thumb hole and sc around the thumb opening, when you get back to the first sc do NOT slp-st to close or turn work, simply continue working sc sts around the thumb opening.  The number of sc does NOT matter. For the small/child size do 2 rounds of sc.  For the large child/women’s medium and Large sizes  do 3 rounds.

Bind Off & Weave in ends.

  • Flip the glove right side out and with the 5.5mm hook and using black yarn, sc around the top of the gloves.  The number of sc does NOT matter.  Do 2 rounds in continuous fashion (as you did for the thumb) for the small/child size and 3 continuous rounds for the Large child/women’s medium and large sizes.
  • With the 5.5mm hook and using black yarn, sc around the bottom of the gloves working a sc2tog on each side of the wrist.  The number of sc does NOT matter.  Do 2 rounds in continuous fashion (as you did for the thumb) for the small/child size and 3 continuous rounds for the Large child/women’s medium and large sizes.

Adjustments:

If the area around the fingers seems as if it may be too tight for your fingers (Large child/women’s medium & Large sizes) you can make this area looser by adding two rows of one segment (3 dc sts) of plaid stitches to the end of the gloves.  So that the gloves, BEFORE you go to the finishing section looks like the one below.

To finish, follow instructions in the “Finishing” section for LEFT and RIGHT gloves, but seam the entire edge instead and then seam the thumb section as outlined in the “Finishing” section.

Bind Off & Weave in ends.


There you have it folks.

These fingerless gloves are the perfect addition to my Simply Chic Buffalo Plaid collection!

Don’t let coordinating the three colors or learning to carry the yarn throughout the project scare you.

Once these techniques are mastered you’ll be whipping up a ton of crochet plaid projects in no time and adding some amazing plaid pieces to your winter wardrobe!


Thank you for coming to my blog! By sharing my content and/or making a purchase you are making it possible for me to continue producing and sharing free content for everyone to enjoy. I sincerely appreciate your support!

Until next time…  Happy Crocheting!

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